Traditional Attire Group - Shirts & CollarsShirts & Collars

There are few more defining items of clothing for true traditionalists than the stiff, polished, bright white, separate collar, together with its essential companion - the tunic shirt.

Make no mistake, this is not an easy combination to manage, which is why the majority of men have opted for attached collars, but the smart end result is absolutely worth the effort.

Separate collars and tunic shirts are not very easy to find, but are not particularly expensive. Their very existence is probably kept going by elements of the legal profession.

They do require studs (don’t we all?) and these can be tricky - both to acquire, and then to apply. One fixed shallow but larger stud is affixed to shirt and collar at the back, with a smaller but deeper, adjustable stud at the front. It works best to fit the tie into the fold of the collar, and then to close it, before fixing the front stud.

Collars come in various shapes and sizes, and the latter should be half an inch greater than that of the tunic shirt, for example: 16˝ when your normal collar size is 16.

Tunic shirts which are genuinely intended for use with collars will have double-cuffs and three stud-openings at the top. Beware of ‘trendy’ collarless shirts, with no place for collar studs.


Other shirts

If you do wear collar-attached shirt with a business or lounge suit, it should of course have double cuffs (sometimes called French cuffs, though few Frenchmen appear to wear them).

Country shirts worn with tweed are a different matter. They will have a light-checked pattern, are usually predominantly green or yellow, and almost invariably have single cuffs.